Maison Kalder - Cidre Rue des 4 - Brut 2022
In Sainte-Marie-du-Bois, at the northern tip of Mayenne, Maison Kalder holds a unique place in the revival of great terroir ciders. Alexandre Sidorenko, an oenologist trained in Bordeaux, took over the estate in 2021, before being joined by Judith J. Sciarone in 2023 to further refine the precision of the juices. The orchard covers 11 hectares exclusively planted with tall trees, following the meadow-orchard model, with about 700 apple trees and 300 pear trees. The trees grow on an east-facing schist slope at 200 meters altitude, in an environment where slow ripening, eco-grazing, and biodiversity directly contribute to the balance of the fruits. The organic and biodynamic approach gives the ciders a very distinct identity far from standardized products: here, the apple is worked with the eye of a winemaker. Fermentations occur without added sulfur or exogenous yeasts, without fining or filtration, with bottling by gravity. Rue des 4 Brut 2022 fits into this search for a vinous, lively, and gastronomic cider, with fine bubbles and a mouthfeel closer to a natural sparkling wine than a conventional cider.
This cuvée is a Normandy IGP brut cider, made from about ten late varieties harvested in November: Douce Coetligné, Douce Moen, Rouget de Dol, Bedan, Binet Rouge, Marie Ménard, Kermerien, Fréquin Rouge, Domaine, and Petit Jaune. The fruits, all from the estate, mature in pallox crates for two to four weeks before being pressed together. The pressing is slow, done with a traditional Norman vertical press called a "presse à paquet," to gently extract the juice and preserve its texture. The fermentation is slow, conducted without added yeast or sulfur, then several rackings are done according to the lunar calendar. The apple wine is neither filtered nor fined, preserving a living, slightly earthy matter but of great purity. The 2022 vintage here produces a cider of ripe fruit, gourmandise, and roundness, balanced by a refreshing acidity and a fine mineral dimension linked to the schist terroir. Le Monde has also distinguished Rue des 4 for its vinous style, frank mouthfeel, well-managed dryness, and roundness more marked than in the strictest expressions of the estate.
The color presents as a slightly cloudy golden yellow, natural, animated by fine and regular bubbles. The nose evokes ripe apple, apple skin, fresh quince, slightly stewed pear, then deeper nuances of dry hay, apple blossom, sourdough, and wet stone. On the palate, the attack has a beautiful gourmandise, with immediate roundness quickly balanced by freshness. The tannins remain discreet, making the texture supple, digestible, and very pleasant, without sacrificing true structure. The finish retains a dry sensation, slightly saline, with a fine bitterness that prolongs the tasting and invites food. This brut cider will pair very well with roast pork, leek and maroilles tart, farm poultry, summer grills, soft cheese, or a frangipane dessert. Served around 8 to 10°C, it will best express its freshness, bubble finesse, and that vinous dimension that is the essence of Maison Kalder.
Apple varieties: Douce Coetligné, Douce Moen, Rouget de Dol, Bedan, Binet Rouge, Marie Ménard, Kermerien, Fréquin Rouge, Domaine, Petit Jaune
