Domaine Benoit Lalanne - Les Quarts de Noëls 2023
Located in the heart of Anjou Noir, Domaine Benoit Lalanne has established itself as one of the new and influential winemakers in the Loire Valley. At the helm of a human-scale vineyard, Benoit Lalanne prioritizes viticulture that is attentive to the schist and quartz soils, employing extensive manual labor and minimal intervention both in the vineyard and the cellar. His objective is clear: to produce precise Loire wines of great purity of expression, where Chenin Blanc becomes the primary vehicle for the terroir rather than simply a grape variety.
Les Quarts de Noëls 2023 is one of the estate's flagship wines, sourced from a historic, south-facing slope whose name evokes the ancient "quarts" that designated the best parts of the hillside. The Chenin Blanc vines, some decades old, plunge their roots into a bedrock of fractured schist and quartz veins, which impart tension and depth to the wine. The 2023 vintage, luminous without being overly bright, allowed for perfectly controlled ripeness while maintaining a focused acidity. The harvest, exclusively by hand, undergoes meticulous sorting. The grapes are pressed slowly and gently, fermentation takes place using only indigenous yeasts, and aging continues on fine lees in barrels and casks that have held several vintages, without excessive oak or technical embellishment, in order to preserve the character of the slope.
On the nose, Les Quarts de Noëls 2023 presents itself with great aromatic purity. After a good hour of decanting, the initial notes evoke ripe lemon, pink grapefruit, and juicy pear, enhanced by nuances of yellow apple, white peach, and hawthorn blossom. A subtle smoky and stony touch emerges with aeration, reminiscent of sun-baked rock and the mineral structure of the terroir. On the palate, the attack is direct and vibrant, driven by precise acidity that lengthens the wine without harshness. The mid-palate reveals a dense yet perfectly structured texture, where zesty citrus, white fruits, delicate herbs, and a hint of light spice mingle. The finish is long and chiseled, marked by subtle salinity and elegant lemon peel bitterness that prolongs the sensation of freshness and depth, the hallmark of great dry Chenin Blancs from the Loire Valley.
At the table, the 2023 Quarts de Noëls behaves like a true gastronomic white wine. It pairs wonderfully with fine fish, whether grilled, roasted, or served in a light sauce, such as pike-perch with beurre blanc, line-caught sea bass, or turbot. Its tension and minerality make it an ideal partner for seafood and shellfish, from fine de claire oysters to seared scallops. On land, it enhances roasted free-range poultry with lemon and thyme, asparagus risotto, vegetable dishes featuring spring vegetables, or a fine selection of cheeses, from Loire Valley goat cheeses to lightly aged pressed cheeses. Its structure and energy suggest excellent aging potential for patient wine lovers.
Grape variety: 100% Chenin Blanc