Domaine Sylvain PATAILLE - Bourgogne Aligoté Petit Puits 2024
In Marsannay, Sylvain Pataille set out to demonstrate that Aligoté could achieve a depth and distinction comparable to those of the great white grape varieties of Burgundy. A trained oenologist, established independently since 1999, he has gradually built a vineyard where old Aligoté selections hold a privileged place. His approach is based on a conviction: this grape variety, long considered secondary, has a remarkable ability to express differences in soils, exposure, and vine age. Rather than seeking a uniform expression, he isolates several lieux-dits in Marsannay, revealing personalities sometimes very distant from each other. The estate is managed organically, with biodynamic practices and meticulous soil work, sometimes done on horseback to preserve their structure. Spontaneous fermentations, extended aging, and sparing use of sulfur extend this quest for an expression faithful to the grape. Among these parcel cuvées, Petit Puits holds a special place due to the age of its vines and the character of its terroir, giving rise to an Aligoté whose depth far exceeds the range usually associated with the appellation.
The Bourgogne Aligoté Petit Puits 2024 comes from a plot of only 0.59 hectares, planted in 1929 on red clay soils resting on a limestone substrate. These nearly century-old vines constitute a precious plant heritage, whose ancient rooting and naturally moderate vigor contribute to the wine's personality. The presence of clay provides a significant water reserve and favors a fleshier expression of Aligoté, while the limestone contributes to the structure and freshness of the whole. After manual harvesting, the grapes are crushed and then slowly pressed in a vertical press, before spontaneous fermentation driven by indigenous yeasts. The wine continues its aging for about twelve months in already used oak barrels, then benefits from an additional resting period in tank, allowing its matter to harmonize without undergoing the marked influence of new wood. The 2024 vintage, particularly difficult in Burgundy due to repeated rains and significant sanitary pressure, required constant vigilance in the vineyards and rigorous grape selection. In this context, the old vines of Petit Puits offer the conditions for a concentrated but tense expression, where the depth of the terroir meets the natural freshness of a relatively late year.
Petit Puits 2024 stands out by an aromatic expression less immediately exuberant than that of many Burgundy whites, favoring depth and precision. The nose evokes ripe lemon, yellow apple, and fresh pear, accompanied by nuances of white flowers, fennel, and delicate hazelnut. Upon aeration, notes of citron zest, dry herbs, and wet stone bring an additional dimension to a bouquet that gradually gains intensity. The palate has ample and structured matter, with an almost tactile texture crossed by a lively acidity, giving the wine a remarkable sensation of energy. Fine citrus bitters prolong the tasting, while a saline and slightly chalky impression adds persistence to a particularly savory finish. This characterful white will find beautiful pairings with roasted turbot with brown butter, pan-seared scallops, farm poultry with cream, or a long-aged Comté, whose depth will respond to its generous texture. Still young, it will benefit from being opened in advance and has the qualities necessary to evolve favorably over about ten years, gradually developing nuances of wax, dried fruits, and spices while retaining the tension that makes it unique.
Grape variety: 100% Aligoté
