Domaine Sylvain PATAILLE - Bourgogne Aligoté 2024
Long relegated to the role of a simple, thirst-quenching white wine, Aligoté has experienced a true renaissance in Burgundy over the past twenty years, to which Sylvain Pataille has greatly contributed. Based in Marsannay-la-Côte, at the northern end of the Côte de Nuits, this winemaker and trained oenologist created his estate in 1999 with just one hectare of vines, before gradually building up a property of about seventeen hectares. His work has profoundly renewed the perspective on the terroirs of Marsannay, as well as on this grape variety long overshadowed by Chardonnay. Convinced that Aligoté has a remarkable ability to express the geological nuances of its place of origin, he dedicates several single-vineyard cuvées to it, some of which today rival the depth of great white Burgundies. The vineyard is farmed organically, with biodynamic practices and soil work sometimes done on horseback to limit compaction. In the cellar, natural fermentations, patient aging, and low sulfur doses extend this quest for a sincere expression of the grape. His Bourgogne Aligoté offers a particularly interesting entry point into this world, with a wine whose precision and texture far exceed the usual expectations of the appellation.
This 2024 cuvée mainly comes from two sectors of Marsannay, Champ Forey and Les Auvonnes, whose soil differences provide a particularly interesting complementarity. The first rests on limestone and gravel formations, while the second has more clay and marl mixed with small stones, giving the wine a more generous body. The vines, averaging about fifty years old, are planted with Aligoté Doré, an old selection of the variety appreciated for the concentration of its small berries and its aromatic richness. After hand harvesting, the grapes are gently pressed, then ferment spontaneously thanks to indigenous yeasts. The aging, about twelve months, uses previously used wooden containers, allowing the wine to gain depth without developing a dominant woody character. The 2024 vintage, particularly challenging in Burgundy due to frequent rains, mildew pressure, and relatively late ripening, required great vigilance in the vineyards and rigorous grape selection. These cool conditions nevertheless correspond to an interesting expression of Aligoté, whose natural acidity and liveliness are essential qualities when the fruit maturity remains balanced.
Sylvain Pataille's 2024 Bourgogne Aligoté favors aromatic clarity and fine texture, with a profile where fresh lemon, green apple, crunchy pear, and white flowers meet. Upon aeration, discreet hints of hazelnut, citron zest, and wet stone add more relief to a bouquet that remains very restrained. The palate has a lively and precise attack, quickly extended by a body more ample than the initial freshness suggests. The aging brings some roundness, but acidity remains the guiding thread of the tasting, giving the wine a sensation of energy and remarkable fluidity. The finish, persistent and mouthwatering, combines citrus, fine bitterness, and a chalky impression that enhances its gastronomic character. This white Burgundy will pair particularly well with oysters, citrus sea bream tartare, sole goujonettes, trout meunière, or fresh goat cheese, whose flavors will highlight its liveliness. Already accessible for its brightness and frankness, it also has enough substance to evolve favorably over several years, gradually developing dried fruit nuances and a softer texture.
Grape variety: 100% Aligoté
