Domaine Naudin-Ferrand - Clematis Vitalba 2024
In Magny-lès-Villers, between Nuits-Saint-Georges and Beaune, Domaine Naudin-Ferrand holds a unique place in the history of the Hautes-Côtes bourguignonnes. The estate, closely linked to the birth and development of this appellation since the 1960s, currently cultivates about 22 hectares of vines, mostly in regional appellations of the Hautes-Côtes. Around Claire Naudin, the estate defends a very personal approach, based on observation, questioning, and a search for expression rather than conformity. The technical choices aim for less standardized wines, with a strong reduction of inputs, very low or no sulfite fermentations, no added yeasts, and particular attention paid to respecting the grape. Clematis Vitalba 2024 belongs to the estate's "Nature" cuvée family, these wines fermented without added sulfites to let the place and vintage speak more directly. In the register of Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits whites, this cuvée offers a fresh, structured, and deep reading of Chardonnay, with the precision of a relatively high-altitude wine and the patina of a controlled oak aging.
This cuvée is made from Chardonnay, coming from two parcels located in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits: "Les Tilles," in Magny-lès-Villers, east-facing, and "Sous le Mont," in Villers-la-Faye, planted in 2009. The official sheet indicates an area of 1.78 hectares, vines aged 25 years, a very modest yield of 25 hl/ha, and a limited production of 4,477 bottles. The grapes were hand-harvested on September 26, 2024, in a year where the harvest was reduced but of sufficient quality to allow this alternative vinification. Pressing is done with whole bunches, slowly and at low pressure, followed by natural settling by gravity. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentations occur naturally in barrels, followed by 12 months aging on lees. Bottling is done without filtration, with a very moderate addition of sulfites to ensure transport and aging. The aging includes 21% new barrels, a proportion that gives structure to the wine without erasing the natural acidity preserved by the vintage.
The color presents as a pale yellow, quite restrained despite barrel aging, which announces a white wine built more on tension than visual richness. The nose combines citrus, minerality, a toasted touch, and nuances of riper fruits, with a pineapple note mentioned by the estate for this vintage. On the palate, Clematis Vitalba 2024 has a clear structure, with fresh fruit balancing the presence of wood and giving momentum to the whole. The texture is both fleshy and precise, supported by a natural acidity that lengthens the wine without hardening it. The finish retains a beautiful energy, with a sensation of depth that promises favorable evolution over several years. At the table, it will accompany river fish, abalone, Bresse poultry stuffed with porcini mushrooms, pike quenelles, chanterelle risotto, or a Cîteaux cheese. Served cool but not iced, around 10 to 12°C, it will benefit from being opened one to two hours before the meal, with possible decanting if carbon dioxide is still perceptible.
Grape variety: Chardonnay