Clos Durandière - Étienne Bodet - Graippeaux 2023
Étienne Bodet's Clos Durandière is set in the landscape of Montreuil-Bellay, south of Saumurois, in a Loire area where the great balances rely as much on the finesse of the grape varieties as on the uniqueness of the limestones. Coming from a winemaking family established for several generations, Étienne Bodet built his own project around plots chosen for their geological identity and their potential for expression. An oenologist by training, marked by experiences with reference estates, he works his wines with a requirement that combines technical precision and artisanal sensitivity. The estate remains discreet due to its size and volumes but attracts attention for the purity of its whites as well as the depth of its reds. In Montreuil-Bellay, the soils differ from the more classic tuffeau of Saumurois, with ancient limestone formations, clays, and glauconitic components that give the wines a particular tension. The vineyard management is described as organic, with a search for just maturity and respect for life. Graippeaux 2023 illustrates this demanding interpretation of Chenin, in a Saumur white style that is both ample, saline, and deeply mineral.
The Graippeaux 2023 cuvée comes from old Chenin vines about 70 years old, rooted in a terroir of green chalk or olive chalk, with clay-silty soils and glauconitic sandy elements according to available sources. This combination gives the wine a unique structure, where the natural density of Chenin is crossed by a very clear chalky freshness. The harvest is done by hand to preserve the integrity of the grapes and allow a precise selection of maturity. In the cellar, Étienne Bodet favors a low-intervention vinification, with fermentations led by indigenous yeasts. The long aging in old barrels accompanies the material without seeking to impose a dominant woody imprint. The 2023 vintage offers an interesting balance between fruit richness, Loire tension, and texture depth. Graippeaux 2023 thus presents itself as a gastronomic Saumur white, built on patience, precision, and the energy of the soil.
On tasting, Clos Durandière Étienne Bodet Graippeaux 2023 reveals an expressive white Chenin, carried by aromas of ripe citrus, pear, yellow apple, white flowers, and finely candied zest. Aeration can bring out deeper notes of quince, light honey, wet stone, and fresh chalk. On the palate, the wine is ample and textured, with a serious substance perfectly held by a straight acidity. The saline minerality brings a sensation of relief and extends the finish with great elegance. The aging in old barrels supports the structure without masking the purity of Chenin or the identity of the terroir. This Saumur white will precisely accompany a noble fish, creamy poultry, scallops, mushroom risotto, aged goat cheeses, or vegetable cuisine around root vegetables. It can already be appreciated after aeration, but its balance and depth give it a beautiful aging potential over several years.
Grape variety: 100% Chenin
